Run tests of every crate, with all features disabled

I'm about to make code in another MR where conditional compilation will also be used to exercise some runtime cases. I noticed that nothing in CI would test it (as far as I could tell).

I had to exclude tor-hsservice, arti, and arti-client. I did that in a not-particularly principled way, but I don't want to invent an edifice while I'm actually trying to do something else.